Friday, July 27, 2012

Auki- first days!


Thursday, July 26, 2012

We made it to Auki!  I seriously had my doubts about the boat leaving on time, especially after the earthquake.  I kept feeling aftershocks a tiny bit throughout the night and I certainly did not sleep that well.  Sister Vero had on the radio and all I could hear was muffled pidgin and every other work tsunami.  They were saying, “No tsunami,” but I unfortunately didn’t understand that until the morning. 

We got to the wharf and waited for our boat while every single person in line stared at us.  Clare and I smiled but I seriously felt like I was in a cage.  After loading the boat, we luckily got a table and two very nice RAMSI officers sat with us.  We talked about our experiences in the Solomon’s.  They were stationed for 3 contract terms to build housing for the police force.  They wish to do this so that the various province police can move around because they are very biased to their “wantok” or one-talk, meaning they are from the same tribe/village.  What is also true of wantoks is that they can show up to any other wantoks house/province and expect to be put up for however long they would like to stay.  This is incredibly problematic and expensive for the hosting wantok.  Anything in his home becomes common property for his wantok family to share, even if they had not known each other well.

After a four hour boat ride, we arrived in Auki around 12 PM and were greeted by Bishop Chris right off the boat!  He draped a leaf necklace around each of our necks and welcomed us in the traditional fashion!  Bishop Chris is nothing less than a celebrity in Auki and all of the Catholic community for that matter.  When he was walking through the market to reach us he had already received 2 fish!  Now everyone in the crowed wharf was staring and he casually explained, “Clare and Cayla wantok me.”  Then the people understood!  We threw our bags in his truck and drove about 5 minutes down the road to the Diocese of Auki grounds.  This beautifully landscaped community is home to sisters, brothers, some school and security staff, and the Bishop himself.  We were lucky to have a lunch prepared for us as soon as we arrived in his kitchen with other visiting sisters of charity who were just preparing to leave.  Everyone was so friendly and welcoming.  Clare actually had Brother Roger, who is Bishop Chris’s friend from New York, as a teacher in high school and he is here visiting at the same time teaching music.  He was a major reason why Clare became so interested in the fellowship and it was great that their time overlapped a bit.

After lunch, Clare and I were led to our house with Sister Loretta and Sister Matilda.  Their house is so colorful and cute!  It is just a minute away from the Bishop’s, as well as the chapel.  Clare and I are once again living like queens as we each have our own room, and electricity!  Sister Loretta took us to town so Clare and I could get Internet to post on our blog and we enjoyed a nice walk.  The center of Auki is maybe about a 30-45 minute walk from where we are.  After our trip, we discussed our schedules for our time here.  Clare would be going to the secondary school to teach English where Sister Loretta teaches and I will be traveling to Kilufi Hospital in the morning with Sister Matilda who is visiting the sick.  Hopefully I will be able to set up some work there for the rest of my time in Auki.

Bishop Chris held an evening prayer and many children from the surrounding community came.  He also held a meal in a little outdoor seating area/hut equipped with grass roof and bamboo bar!  He is already so kind and welcoming.  It is amazing how all the kids and adults look up to him.  His pidgin is spot on since he’s been here, almost 20 years!  Bishop Chris was a classmate of Providence College’s president, Father Shanley, so a PC grad himself.  The friars that are still teaching at PC all know Bishop Chris and some of his family is still attending/involved with the school as well.  It is certainly a small world!  I am blessed to be in the beautiful province of Malaita and welcomed by everyone.  After dinner, Brother Roger, Clare, and I were talking about how the Solomon Islanders are the happiest people you’ll ever meet despite having so little.  He said one thing that stood out to me.  Solomon Islanders have 3 possessions:  their family, their community, and their faith.



Friday, July 27, 2012

Day 2 in Auki was just as amazing as the first.  We woke up for early 6 AM morning mass said by Bishop Chris and a priest from Tonga.  After that, Sister Loretta and Matilda cooked some breakfast and we got ready for our organizing schedule day.  Sister Matilda had to get 3 huge bugs out my room and I think she was a little annoyed.. There was a massive spider, grasshopper, and a cockroach (I'm not a wimp!)  Clare and Sister Loretta headed off to the secondary school right across the street where Sister Loretta is an English teacher.  After Clare got settled, I was to head down to Kilu’ufi Hospital with both the sisters to find out my program for the 3 weeks.  We caught a bus around 9 AM in the scorching heat and arrived at the hospital.  You would have to see to believe the condition the hospital is in.  It is much more “professional” than the clinic, but the halls between the wards were outside and inside the wards are just lines of beds where people lay.  From what I could see so far, there was a maternity ward, children’s, men, women, tuberculosis, and the only psychiatric in the Solomon’s.  I went with Sister Matilda as she gave communion to the sick in the TB ward while Sister Loretta tried to find the director for me to meet.  The patients looked so sickly it was terrible.  Also, at Kilu’ufi, they are not responsible for feeding the patients, so most of the time you will see many many family members crowding around one bed visiting and feeding the patient. 

Sister Loretta found me and it was time to meet with the medical director, May-June.  (Yes for real, June for short).  Her office was the nicest place I’ve seen in the Islands yet, with a rolling chair, air conditioning, a fan, and a computer.  Her personality was very dry so I was intimidated.  It was peculiar that her office seemed to be so elaborate while the rest of the hospital was in pretty tough shape.  Basically she said it was fine that I worked at the hospital she just needed to see a formal letter.  This is the most procedure I have experienced so far!  No waivers, no health forms, just a letter.  So Sister Loretta and I walked back to Sister Matilda in the women’s ward to tell her we were heading back.  She was praying with a patient while the nurse was cleaning the beds.  During the prayer, she actually found beetlenut in the patient’s bed which is definitely not allowed!  Everyone started laughing, including the nurse.

Sister Loretta and I walked back to the house, maybe 20-30 minutes.  Here begins the start of my realization how easy we have it in the US to type and print.  Sister Loretta has a computer, so I quickly typed up a document stating my education, background, and why I am traveling on this fellowship.  I wrote it from the sisters and Bishop Chris.  But, printing at the house would be too easy.  We then walked to the secondary school to print out the letter.  One of the office workers printed out the letter for me, and now my job was to find Bishop Chris to sign it.  I was exhausted from the heat by this time and Sister Loretta stayed behind at the school.  I walked back to the Bishop’s house, right near ours, but he was not there.  So I began asking where he might be, and found out that he was in his office a mile down the road.  So I began my journey, letter in hand.  I was enjoying myself waving to everyone on the road as they stared at me and met with Bishop Chris.  After he signed the letter, I began the journey home and barely made it.  Clare was in the house and told me how she was teaching her own class!  When she headed back to the school, I unfortunately had to walk BACK to Kilu’ufi to deliver the letter!  So maybe 1.5-2 miles later, I was sweating profusely as I handed my letter to May-June.  She said I was set to start Monday for an orientation with the nurses.  They said I should be very busy because there are actually only 3 doctors in all of Malaita (151,000 people).  This is compared to a state such as New York which is about 1 doctor to every 400 people.  I finally completed my journey home (with a tan) and waited for Sister Loretta and Clare to return home from school.

When they got home, we headed to the market to pick up some things for dinner.  Of course we got the world-renowned Malaita pineapple as well as some lettuce, peppers, and tomato.  We walked around for a little and returned on a bus.  After some weeding in the garden (Gram would be proud!) with Bishop Chris, we headed to evening mass.  We had dinner once again with the children from mass which was great.  Now, Sister Loretta is playing this game on my dad’s kindle where you have to get 3 bubbles of the same color in a row and they pop.  She is screaming and laughing every time she beats a level.  It’s actually hilarious and reminds me of my mom and I playing jewel frenzy and other games on the iPad until ridiculous hours in the night. 





Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Visale


Sunday, July 22, 2012

How do I even begin to explain today’s travels… First, Clare and I wanted to wake up and cook Sister Catie and Stephanie breakfast before 8 AM Mass.  We didn’t have many materials, ingredients, or power, so we decided on a makeshift banana French toast.  After Clare spilled cocoa all over herself in the dark and I burnt myself lighting the stove with a match, somehow we came away with a feast by 7 AM and called everyone to the table.  The meal was not half bad and they highly enjoyed it!

Clare and I walked to church just across the street and watched as all the students came in.  Luckily, we picked to sit on the right side (girls) and the pew we were sitting in was the last to be filled.  Everyone was afraid despite our waving!  There was barely any speaking in the service except for the readings.  The children sang and played acoustic guitar the entire time and it literally sounded like a choir.  They were all rehearsed and the music and melody of every song was incredible.  The handcrafted alter, grass roof chapel, and painted rainbow colors around the church was one of the most beautiful sights.  At the end of Mass, the deputy principal of the school had Clare and I stand up and introduced us as a “nurse and a sports teacher” and said that no one could go to the clinic unless they were seriously ill and everyone laughed.  It was an honor to be mentioned.

After church, Clare and I headed back to pack up our things.  Sister Catie was already almost crying and saying she didn’t want us to leave.  She is seriously a riot.  After we were done packing, there was a patient waiting for her injection, so I walked to the clinic and took care of that and also cleaned an open sore on her finger.  Clare and I were sitting outside the clinic just chatting and laughing as Sister Catie took our cameras and took photos of every single flower and spoke about every single blade of grass, when we saw Sister Veronica and Sister Leonie drive up in their car.  That meant it was time to go, and we were so sad to leave.  Sister Catie and Sister Stephanie packed the car with food and said that if anything went wrong for the rest of our trip to call and she will come get us.  It was so sad to leave and see her upset, and her 4-foot tall body running after the car.

We stopped at Panatina Ridge to switch cars where we met more and more sisters and visitors.  We had a quick lunch, and then started off on our journey to Visale, about an hour away.  On the way, we saw Guadalcanal war memorials as we drove along the coastline of the island.  I’ve never driven on such a beautiful road and I was in awe as we came out of the city into the more rural villages with no power or electricity.  It is such a sight to see the rich land and ocean juxtaposed with these poor families of 10, 20 people and their children without any clothes.  Sister Veronica comes from Visale and she explained to us that the road we were driving on had mostly Catholic villages.  They all first learn to speak the mother tongue, then pidgin a form of broken English, and then English if they get to a good school.  It really sets the family dynamic, because if one does not go beyond the mother tongue, you can only communicate with those in your surrounding area.  There are 15 mother tongues in Guadalcanal alone.
After driving through rivers, rickety bridges, and receiving many laughs from people looking at white people as we passed, we reached Sister Veronica’s school where she teaches home-ec and health as well as her house.  She is set back from the school in a group of homes all built for the staff of the school.  Her house is owned by the Dominican Sisters, so whoever will come here next in their placement will stay in this house.  Clare and I are sharing one room of the 2-room home, and it is the cutest place ever.  Decorated with beautiful Solomon Island drapes, a purple floor, and a homemade altar, you can barely notice that there is no power ever!  We dropped our things inside and Sister Veronica took pineapple, rice, watermelon, and tea in the car and said we were going out to the beach.  I was so excited!  We drove down a small road and Sister Veronica pointed out each one of her family’s huts and one of their villages.  It seemed that she was related to every single person on the road.  We stopped at her sister’s house and met their entire family.  The kids were hysterically laughing when they saw us because Sister Vero told them we came especially to see them.  Some of them clothed and some unclothed, they laughed and laughed and were embarrassed to introduce themselves.  Clare and I were enjoying this so much!  Although it looked like they barely had a sturdy house, the children and parents came out holding coconuts for each of us.  We thanked them so much and headed off to the beach. 

We parked at Sister Vero’s cousin’s hut that was actually on the beach, and walked down to the water with our coconuts in hand.  I’ve ever seen such a pristine and untouched scene.  I’ve also never had a swim in water where 2 people were spear fishing about 50 feet away from me.  The water was like a bath, and I just floated and enjoyed the sun.  After our swim, Sister Vero told us that her nieces and nephews had something for us.  We walked near their house, and they set up a whole table for Clare and me, with a tablecloth and flowers!  They cut up the fruit and watched us sit down.  I was in shock.  I certainly to not need to be treated like a princess and I felt so horrible about how selfish we can be sometimes in America.  These kids were in joy just by giving someone a gift.  Not to mention, they made me close my eyes and tied a beautiful flower necklace around my neck and one on Clare’s.  They were the cutest kids ever and I wish that they will be safe and healthy in their future.  So far, this was one of the best days and I could not believe by just visiting and doing work I enjoy, I was practically getting showered by gifts.

Our beautiful picnic!
After our swim, we drove to Sister Vero’s family village about 5 minutes down the road.  They literally had about 7 wooden and grass huts and a bamboo archway with flowers as you enter.  It was so beautiful that this extended family lived together so close, without any power, and looked so peaceful and calm.  There are no worries in the Solomon’s.  Sister Vero set up camp and opened yet more Tupperware containers of food and served everyone a dinner of sweet potato, chicken, and more fruit.  She left a ton of food for her family and the parish priest who lives in their village, and I could see the joy on her face as well as theirs.  We headed back to the school and house when Sister Vero’s sister flagged the car down.  They wanted to give us more!  One by one, the uncle and children carried out pineapple and cucumbers “for the American students.”  The pineapple was just picked from their garden!  I felt so terrible taking the food, but they are so happy to give.  Clare and I just couldn’t believe their culture.  So carefree, easy, and simple.  Sister Vero’s laugh is contagious and we spoke pidgin saying “see you later” and “good night” out the window to all the people passing.  Some stopped us saying they wanted to shake our hands. 

When we got back to the house, we toured the school and the clinic where I’ll be going tomorrow.  We each had a freezing cold shower outside, which felt amazing, and said an evening prayer.   Sister Vero, Clare, and I sat by her table and told stories for so long.  We were all hysterically laughing as we recounted stories of crazy Sister Catie.  She was one of the first sisters in the Solomon’s, refuses to tell anyone her age, and even though they say you don’t have to wear a veil anymore, she insists.  She also had a parrot before Pacifica called March, and a dog ate it.  The way Sister Catie told Clare and I we were both almost in tears, but Sister Veronica told us that Catie put so much attention on the bird everyone was neglected.  When the bird died, Catie did not eat or do anything for 3 days.  The Sisters had to buy her Pacifica so she would come out of her slump.  We were laughing so hard.  We reminisced on the time Clare and I taught her yoga and her tiny munchkin self, trying to throw herself on the floor eager to learn.  And also how she thought we were doing “yogurt.”  Finally Sister Veronica told us that she wanted to be a nurse at one point and took her entrance exam with one other boy.  She passed with flying colors, and the boy failed.  But, just as politics are in the US, the boy’s family who were parliament of Western Province, paid off the nursing school so Vero would not get in.  They accused her of cheating.  I could not believe this injustice.  Sister Vero is so happy teaching health, but to think that her dreams were stolen away unfairly is sickening. 

Heading to bed early at 9 PM for another eventful day.  I have no doubts I am going to sleep well on the floor in this beautiful house.

Monday, July 23, 2012

After my first full day in Visale, a village without running water and power, I am truly amazed by the community.  We woke up around 5:45 and got ready for mass.  We walked to the church and listened to the choir sing in perfect harmony the entire time.  The deacon welcomed us once again and I felt honored.  After breakfast, I changed into my scrubs and felt a little nervous for my first day at the clinic.  First, Sister Vero took Clare and I to the staff office of the school and we were introduced to everyone.  The teachers’ staff room looked like a few desks pushed together with stacks of books piled on top.  They looked so eager to teach despite this cramped office and I wished that one day the school building could be improved.  All the teachers plus Clare and I then piled in a room for the “pre-assembly.”  This was the first day of school starting the third term.  However, school was supposed to start last week but because of the Pacific Arts Festival, not enough students came.  This is how things work here.  And also, the principal didn’t even turn up yet.  I felt sorry for Sister Vero who is one of the nicest an genuine people I’ve ever met trying to make a difference, with so few resources.  All the students started laughing and whispering when Clare and I walked in.  This seems to be the typical reaction!  I just smiled and waved and felt so many eyes staring and me and turning away as I looked.  It was hysterical.  The head staff teacher introduced us and we spoke about ourselves.  Most of the children can understand some English, but mostly speak pidgin.  After the students received their lecture about no beetlenut, alcohol, or smoking, everyone was seated and 3 girls walked in holding leis for us!  It was the cutest thing ever as they placed fresh white lilies and a braided palm lei around my neck.  I do not deserve this kind of welcome, but it is all part of their culture!

I headed off to the clinic where I met Nurse Michaela taking her time with the line of patients waiting outside. I first worked in the lab, examining slides of blood to test for malaria.  Keep in mind that this lab is a tiny room with one table and one microscope.  I learned about the types of parasites in the Solomon’s, mainly Pf and Pv.  Pf is more dangerous and more common.  It affects the liver where the parasite can hatch its eggs.  There are three stages, and as they progress the parasite becomes darker and rounder under the microscope.  A positive slide looks like a crescent moon with the opening connected by tiny dots.  A tiny blood sample stained after 10 minutes is enough to f=diagnose.  There are many patients that want to be tested, but surprisingly, not many have it.  February was the month where most had malaria, with 76 diagnosed and about 100+ coming in for checks.  In the month of June there were 90 people coming in for checks and only about 17 positive cases.  This disease is so dangerous, and proper prevention is key.  Most families do not have access to bug repellent or mosquito nets, and their children suffer as a side effect.  It was truly heartbreaking to see this disease take control of these people’s bodies and their minds.

After learning about the lab, I helped the nurse record all the patients down including their name, age, sex, village, new/returning, history, and treatment. In total, we saw about 22 patients for the day.  Mothers and children kept lining up outside because Monday is a “free day” meaning anyone can come and people walk from very far away.  I saw patients with abscesses, infections, diabetic sores, flu-symptoms, forehead gashes, and simple cuts.  I took blood pressures and helped with dressings.  Probably the most heart-breaking thing I saw were young mothers coming in with their babies, no older than 2 months old, with a terrible cough and chest infection.  These babies were still breastfeeding and were already given doses of antibiotics, yet still wheezed and could barely make a sound without coughing.  It is sickening that these children have no control over the family or location they are born into.  The nurse told me that oftentimes the mothers neglect the children and forget to finish the dose of antibiotics.  It was amazing to see how freely the perscriptions are dispensed.  No signatures, only a $5.00 payment.  The only money patients pay for healthcare in the Solomon’s is if they see a private doctor, get an injection ($5.00-less than $1.00 US), get a malaria test, or get a prescription.  Healthcare is just not emphasized.  The kids waiting to be seen were staring at me as well as their mothers.  They couldn’t believe I was there and one grandma even ran away from me scared because she couldn’t speak English. 

Two cases were most memorable for me today.  After I came to the clinic around 8:30 AM, the nurse just left saying she had to take a shower.  Schedules do not exist here.  So apparently I was in charge, and I was talking to a lady maybe 20-30 years old who was waiting for her malaria test.  She kept asking me why I was here and she was so interested in everything about me.  I just feel so bad, not feeling sorry for them, but just that they are so genuine and could have life so much easier.  She asked me my name a couple of times throughout our conversation, and then asked how to spell it.  When she was leaving (no malaria, thank goodness) I saw she wrote on her hand, C-a-y-l-a.  I don’t know what she wrote it for, but I was touched.

St. Martin de Porres Clinic in Visale
The other case was an “admittance,” the broadest sense of the term, to the clinic overnight. For an admission here, basically the patient just lays in one of the 2 rooms with a bed and sits there all night, even when there is no nurse on staff.  This woman must have been over 70.  Another interesting fact is that no one knows his or her actual age here.  It is 20+, 30+, and so on.  This particular woman had a severe case of pneumonia and needed intravenous fluid and antibiotic.  Whenever I asked a question, the nurse agreed with me thinking I was trying to diagnose.  Once I asked her if the patient could have bronchitis and she actually gave that as the final diagnosis.  I just asked!  Recording everything factually and worrying about being correct is just not a priority.  There is no such thing as a lawsuit.  This lady needed an IV, so I helped the nurse insert it into the vein and I injected the fluid and antibiotic.  I am so thankful I brought gloves with me for the blood, because the nurse did not even wear any.  The lady was then just told to sit in the room with her family until her next dose at 10 PM.

Tomorrow brings antenatal care, or prenatal care, at the clinic.  The nurse said only pregnant women come to be examined, but I certainly have learned that things do not go according to a schedule.  I think I am supposed to be there around “8:00 AM” which means more like 9.  I am learning so much each day here, and slowly realizing that their system is no system.  Diagnoses are made by at a glance and emergencies are driven to hospital whenever the next vehicle comes to town, but the people and nurses are happy just the same.  People thank me whenever I walk by, but I feel like I am not doing enough to help.  I am just taking it day by day thankful for this experience. 

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

How do I even begin to explain today?  It started off like usual, heading to church early for 6 and then having a quick breakfast.  I wasn’t feeling too hot the end of yesterday and this morning, so I hoped I would be fine for the time I was in the clinic.  Clare and Sister Vero set off to town to buy supplies for the library, and I set off for the clinic. I started walked down the path and when I passed students would yell out their windows, ”Good morning, Cayla!” I felt like a regular! When I got to the clinic there were many patients lined up already, some for antenatal and some outpatient.  I knew that having an antenatal day only was not possible.  I jumped right taking blood pressures to help the two other nurses today who were taking their time.  Once again, I was surprised how steadily the nurses worked and how they diagnosed at a glance.

Randomly, it was time for antenatal, so we walked around the corner to one of the four rooms that had two rickety beds, one for delivery and one for exam.  With the dust and scattered medical papers everywhere around the room, I could hardly believe that this could be a room for pregnant mothers.  The exams were short and sweet, the mothers would come and be weighed and they would tell the nurse about all their other children and history.  Keep in mind that the only comorbidities they check for are hypertension and diabetes.  I noticed that some of the women had higher gravidity than parity, meaning they carried a child and lost it before birth.  After the talk, their urine was tested for glucose and protein.  High glucose would indicate diabetes and high protein would indicate an infection.  One of the mothers had high protein, but nothing was done besides record it.  Most of the mothers were bringing in battered “baby books” or medical history charts with dirt all over them.  The nurse would constantly tell me that I am privileged and lucky to have technology in the US.  There are no such things as prenatal vitamins, diet, or ultrasounds in the clinic.  An ultrasound is only administered at a hospital if it is an emergency and it is very expensive.  They kept telling me to come back when I had trained in the US.  I was really starting to feel hopeless at this point.

Antenatal Exam Room
During the antenatal exams, instead of a heart rate monitor, the nurse would stick an old-fashioned horn object on the mother’s stomach and listen for the fetal heart rate.  They violently pushed to see if the baby was breech.  I was observing but also worrying.  My main job was to write down baby names for boys and girls for the mother.  They usually don’t think of names until they are born.  Don’t worry Coll, all the mothers liked your name for a boy, so I’m sure there will be plenty of Solomonese alter egos in your future J.  One of the mothers was happily lying on the table and told me that her husband left her for a woman in the Western Province and she didn’t know who the father was of her baby.  I was seriously heartbroken and couldn’t believe how nonchalant she was.  I tried to smile and go along with everything, not letting anyone see how sorry I felt that these poor women were denied basic technology to ensure a safe delivery.  The nurse and mothers told me that in the Solomon’s I probably would have already had 4 or 5 children by now.  Their fertility rate is more than 3%.  They couldn’t believe when I said that women wait to have children until after school and a job in America.  There have been girls in the Solomon’s that give birth at a mere 12 or 13 years old.

When the mothers were finished, we went back to outpatient care and I gave some fluid to a man through an IV who came in from a 2-hour boat ride from the weather coast of Guadalcanal to get to Central Hospital.  He did not look too well, but I moved onto the patient we admitted yesterday for her dose of penicillin, but her IV created a boil in her arm, so we had to remove it and start again.  The poor woman sat in the chair as the two nurses tried and tried again to get a vein, but each time they were too deep in the tissue.  Finally, they looked at me and handed me the IV.  I had my eye on a certain vein the entire time and was happy to give it a go.   I sat down and slowly pushed in the needle just under the skin, not too deep, and gently pushed.  And what do you know, blood started coming out the other end, I got it!  The nurses were laughing at the irony and congratulating me and the lady looked just as pleased. 

After a break, I headed back to the clinic to wait for the nurses to open up again and practiced my Pidgin with the people around.  As I was sitting outside, I noticed that the man who was waiting for his ride to Central Hospital was still lying on the ground looking terrible.  When the nurses came back, his wife who was chewing beetlenut, finally stood up and decided to take a bus to the hospital.  I asked if there was anything we could do and the nurses just shook their heads.  They said because of no mobiles, no service, and no cars, many patients die waiting to go to the hospital.  Even if they had a car, no one knew how to drive.  They said communication is awful and transportation is worse.  The ride was radioed from his original clinic, but there was no way to check where it was.  The man tried to stand up, but when he did, he began vomiting blood.  The nurse went over to check on him, and noticed the edema in his feet was getting worse, and so was the jaundice in his fingernails and eyes.  To me, this screamed liver failure.  He was also known to be a drinker, so cirrhosis was also possible.  The nurse said there is no treatment for cirrhosis and he would probably have to wait it out.  Excuse me?!  I was witnessing a man slowly deteriorating in front of my eyes, in front of his children, and the nurses were laughing about how ridiculous the transportation is and sat back down.  They finally turned on the radio which “didn’t work before” and got a signal.  It sounded like there was some communication but I couldn’t tell.  Finally I had it.  I was so angry I told them to write down a doctor’s number who could speak English at Central Hospital and I would walk down the road until I reached service.  They said it was only a half an hour walk.  ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!  Someone easily could have done this 5 hours ago.  I ran to Sister Vero who drove me to a cell signal and she tried calling the number.  I felt horrible to involve her in this but honestly; I had it with the lackadaisical approach to medicine.  Not so cute anymore.  Oh and guess what?  The number was not in service.  I was holding back tears and felt defeated.  I was frustrated with the clinic and with myself.  I know this is the system and they realize they have few resources, but lighting a spark for them to utilize what they have is nearly impossible. 

Clare said that some of the boys wanted to take us on a hike up the surrounding mountain, and I was in need of exercise, so I happily agreed to go.  I changed out of my scrubs and headed out to the start with Jerry, Godrick, Cecilia, and RisaLynn.  I vaguely remembered the Mt. Sorrow hike in Cape Trib and laughed.  This wouldn’t be that hard; after all, the kids weren’t even wearing shoes.  About 10 minutes into the hike, I was sweating profusely.  I could hardly breathe in the humid air, and the hike turned into a steep climb.  I could barely grip anything and started to panic as these children hopped along.  We reached the top after maybe 20 minutes and I admired the view.  I could see the island of Savo in the distance and I was surrounded by paradise.  Jerry interrupted me and said, “Okay, let’s keep going.”  WHAT!  I seriously couldn’t chicken out and let the Solomon Islanders think I wasn’t tough but when I looked up, I realized it was the huge cliff I had been staring at since I got here.  I love a challenge and everyone knows that about me, but seriously, this had to be impossible.  Cecilia called it quits but I sucked it up and bit my tongue, and started the climb by hanging onto to blades of grass while my feet slipped off the slope because of the mossy rocks and mud.  To make things worse, a rock fell from above which made me look down and I seriously have never felt that scared.  This feeling of panic mixed with struggle and embarrassment continued for another 40 minutes of pain until my mud covered body reached the top.  I guess no one warned me?  I was exhausted.  The view was the most amazing scene I had ever seen. I felt the climb was worth it.  But I realized, now I had to go down.  Clare was trying to perk me up but I started to worry about the sun going down and also the fact that I could hear wild pigs and we were walking through grass taller than me. 

Finally at the summit!
Apparently there was an easier way down (I made sure they knew I could not go down the way we came), I convinced myself to get moving even though I was shaking.  What was wrong with me?  I finally just decided that sliding down would be the best for me and finally I was laughing again.  How could I not laugh when I was enduring the most physical activity probably ever in my life, and RisaLynn still had time to make me a crown out of leaves while she was waiting for me to recover.  I took a moment to picture where I was, what I was doing, and who I was with.  Clare and I were in the middle of a jungle mountain in Guadalcanal, with 4 jungle children as tour guides.  Jerry kept apologizing to me the whole time and I was just laughing.  He made me wait while he kicked down trees to clear a path.  I must have asked him 30 times if we were going the right way.  A little friend Dominic joined us earlier on the hike, and he was jumping up and down like a monkey.  They hysterically laughed as I slid down whenever we reached a slope and I called it my “system.”  Everyone was working as a team, especially when I slipped off the slope and Clare grabbed my wrists to hold me while the rest had the pleasure of hoisting me up.  The sun was setting, and the boys kept saying, “soon, soon.”  Finally, I saw a grass hut and ran toward it.  They belonged to families and we just casually walked through their yards waving while their unclothed children ran around.  Jerry pointed to a blue house and said, “Look, that’s where you live!” and I took off.  I thought I was in Sister Vero’s yard lying down but it was one of the teachers from the school. I asked her where I lived and she pointed right next door while laughing.  Finally, I saw Sister Vero and she saw me basically black with mud donning a leaf crown and starting laughing so hard.  Apparently the whole village and the students could see us at the top of the mountain and were cheering for us the whole time.  Good thing I made it!  The boys looked fine in their bare feet, just another day in Visale.  I seriously couldn’t believe it. 

After my success, the rest of the day brought good news.  The patient at the clinic was transported to the hospital FINALLY and Sister Vero prepared a meal of fish, pineapple, papaya and cabbage.  I survived another day, but America’s reputation might be a little damaged from my hike performance.
Top of Mt. Chiromagati with Savo, an Active Volcano Island in the background

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

10:30 PM

So I was about to start my blog for the day and took out my journal to write something down when all of a sudden everything in the room was shaking.  I looked up at Clare sitting on her bed and she said, “Um, earthquake?”  I threw my book and ran out of my room and everything was vibrating and almost toppling off the counters.  When I reached the outside door (probably not a good idea) Sister Veronica was coming up the stairs after just going out for her shower and was like, “I think we just had an earthquake.”  We all started laughing when it was over and couldn’t even believe it.  They don’t happen quite often here, but when they do, people panic because they think it is a tsunami.  Sister Veronica said that she should always bring an extra pair of pants to the shower in case something bad happens and she has to run.  She is hysterical.

This day has been filled with excitement, beginning to end.  I couldn’t believe it was my last day, just as I was getting so comfortable in the community and at the clinic.  But I was also kind of embarrassed to show my face because I’m sure Jerry and Dominic told all the kids about my mountain climbing experience.  I first went to the library Clare was constructing for the students.  We alphabetized books and she had plans to label all the fiction books in order and to place mats and curtains in the room.  It was a big project, but all the kids were looking in through the windows so excited because the donated books from Australia were just collecting dust before.

I walked to the clinic and waited outside for the nurse to arrive and sat with this one little baby, Frederick, who had a moderate ARI, or respiratory infection.  He has been coming with his mother for a “repeat nila” or repeat needle for 3 days now.  Frederick is the first baby I have met that doesn’t cry or run away from me.  In fact, it is quite the opposite.  Whenever he starts crying his mom brings him over to just stare at me and he opens his eyes so wide.  He is seriously fascinated with my bizarre appearance.  It works just up until he gets his shot and then the tears start flowing. 

In the Solomon Islands, there is no such thing as “first come first serve.”  Who every is getting a repeat nila goes first so the nurse can get it over with.  It doesn’t matter if there is a semi-emergency or someone has already been waiting for an hour.  And all the people are completely fine and patient waiting.  We did the usual patients and blood pressures and I found out that everyone already knew I completed the mountain hike!  Then the action picked up.  Sitting waiting outside for all the repeat nilas to go first was a mother and a little boy, 5 years old, who stepped right on a metal fish hook.  Fishhooks are a little different in the Solomon’s because the fish are large and strong.  The part that was in his foot was probably 4 cm long and he wasn’t even crying.  His mother seemed pretty amused as well.  But as soon as the lidocaine was injected in 3 spots around the hook to numb the area, he was screaming.  I felt so horrible and tried to calm him down, but I ended up having to hold him in place.  The nurse cut right into the bottom of the foot with a razor and I do not think the lidocaine was kicking in yet.  Finally after a couple slices, she got the hook out, cleaned it, and gave it to the mother.  The wound was cleaned and the little boy was sent hopping along on his way.  No worries about tetanus or infection either.

Just after I thought I had seen my action for the day, I saw maybe 10 people walking very fast to the clinic from the road.  They looked like they were on a mission but when they arrived they sat on the bench and waited outside.  When I glanced the little boy a woman was carrying on her back and saw the blood, I figured that they probably should just wait outside.  I took them in and when the nurse saw the little boy’s head she just said, “Oh, wow that’s really deep,” in pidgin.  Not so comforting.  I glanced at the 11-year-old little boy, Ezekiel, and saw his eyes were rolling back in his head.  I got him some water and told everyone to stop crowding around him.  It is custom for a whole family or village to accompany someone to a clinic if they are seriously injured.  The nurse didn’t exactly see the problem with eight of his family members sticking their head into the 2-foot wide doorway, but after sitting the boy down and seeing his head closer, they needed to leave.  Just as I thought it couldn’t get any worse, the grandma showed up in a taxi, opened the door and started screaming at the mother in pidgin for being careless.  The boy was home from school with Rubella, and was climbing a tree when he fell and hit his head and back on a stick.  I convinced the nurse to get the family out beside the mother and shut the door.  Finally we could concentrate and began to clean the deep gash out and numb the scalp.  I was in charge of cutting his hair and he started to scream.  I told him to breathe in through his nose and out through his mouth and he actually concentrated on this and toughed it out the whole time.  After cleaning, the nurse said it looked good but I could still see dirt.  After a thorough cleaning, we began stitches.  The nurse pulled it through while I cut and after 6, we were finished.  They had taken a bus to a clinic and his family smothered the boy for another hour until the next bus came.

Available meds in the clinic
There were two other interesting patients today.  One 24-year-old came in with severe abdomen pain she could barely speak or walk.  The nurse kind of just stared at her and thought maybe she should take amoxicillin. I’m no expert but I don’t think amoxicillin would work.  It has happened to this woman before but she only treated it with “local remedy” which is herbal medicine. The nurse decided to take her in for an exam (first one I’ve seen) and felt her stomach.  She felt something “hard” on one side.  I think after my IV performance yesterday the nurse was looking to me a little too much when she asked me, “What do you think?”  Well, I know she needs to go to a hospital, but that is not possible until Friday on referral day.  I said she needed an ultrasound to see for possible gallstones.  For now she is coming back on Friday, but I secretly told her if possible to go to the hospital earlier and get checked.  The nurse also turned to me for another patient who was having trouble seeing.  Apparently she had clear vision but sometimes her head hurts and her vision goes blurry.  This happened twice before and was happening again now.  The nurse turned to me, and the only thing I could say was that she needed to go to an eye specialist. There is one in Honiara at Central Hospital so they agreed to go.  I was worried because it was not a simple “glasses” case.  I was suspecting a possible optic nerve problem.  I tried explaining she needed a brain scan or MRI without scaring them but no one understood.  I took her medical chart that she brings to the hospital and wrote a note to the doctor about the MRI.  I seriously hope this family goes and takes that advice.

Ceremony
After entertaining some of the patients with my remedies for ear problems, getting water out with baking soda and vinegar, I was told to report back to the school for a little gathering that the students were having for Clare and me.  It was about 1 PM, and I worked in the library until they were ready.  I could not even believe the room when I walked in.  There was Sister Vero, all the teachers, the principal, our mountain tour guides (Jerry!), and all the kids around us we have grown close with.  There was fresh fruit and sandwiches that Sister Vero made for everyone and I felt so overwhelmed.  I could not believe they were treating me this well.  There was a table in the middle for us so we sat down while each person stood up and spoke.  The words of thanks they expressed were so sincere and they hoped for more students from PC to travel to Visale.  One of the teachers cried and I almost did as well.  Finally, they presented us with a shell necklace, as it is part of their culture to give gifts to those who travel far.  I couldn’t believe this moment and how welcoming everyone was.  When I got a chance to speak, I spoke seriously first and then apologized to Jerry for my mountain climbing trauma and everyone erupted in laughter.  While we were eating, everyone joked about how I was panicking on the mountain and how poor Jerry got an earful of my complaints.  I filled Jerry’s plate with apology sandwiches over and over again and everyone was hysterical.

Visale Sunset
After this special ceremony, Clare and I worked long and hard to finish labeling the books in the library.  After a few hours, Sister Vero took us for a walk on the beach for sunset.  We enjoyed our last night together and finished up in the library with the help of Cinderella, one of the teachers.  Clare and I were elated when we were done.  Finally these children have a place to read and study and spend their time constructively if they prefer not to go home right after school.  Clare’s project will live on long in the history of Sacred Heart School, and I think most of the kids will think reading is “cool” now that Clare set up the library!


Sister Vero just turned on the radio and the earthquake was a 6.6.  That is probably not the best news because I have to be up at 5 AM and on a boat to Auki tomorrow morning.  I’m on Solomon time for now.  

Tenaru


Wednesday, July 19, 2012


4:15 AM

Soon after I closed my eyes from the amount of excitement I had to be leaving for the Solomon’s, I opened them to my alarm going off to leave for the airport.  Sue was graciously willing to drive Clare and I, and so off we went!  We said our sleepy goodbyes and Clare and I headed off for flight number 5 to Brisbane.  After a quick trip through security, we arrived at our gate just in time for boarding and luckily fell asleep on the plane for the hour flight.

After arriving in Brisbane, we took an air train over to the international terminal and got in line for check-in. We scoped out our fellow travelers and were so excited to board our final flight.  After a farewell yogurt and muesli breakfast, we sat at our gate anxiously awaiting our flight.

2:30 PM

Because I was unaware of the time difference, we got there in 3 hours instead of 4!  Clare tapped me as she glimpsed the first of the land out of her window, and all we could see was mountainous green forests.  We were so excited and ended up making friends with one of the other travelers (despite the empty plane) who was from Melbourne but has been to the Solomon’s over 20 times for his job for RAMSI.  RAMSI is a special alliance created to help reform and teach Solomon Islanders how to build a successful community.  The organization oversees departments such as police, agriculture, and building so that the Islanders can become capable on their own.  The alliance was initially started to keep peace between the Malaitans and Guadalcanal people during the ethnic tension.  We finally touched down in Honiara, Guadalcanal and breathed a sigh of relief when our first step outside was hot and humid!  After customs, money exchange, and baggage claim, Clare and I waited in outside in the heat, people-watching, waiting for one of the sisters to come pick us up.  After waiting about a half an hour until 3 PM, we realized that we had no idea what the sister looked like, if she even knew where to come to get us, or what car we were driving.  Honestly, we looked at each other and laughed.  We were told that this is Solomon Island time, and we had no choice but to follow it!

Finally out of the corner of my eye I spotted an adorable woman with a white headdress on in the passenger side of a pickup truck waving.  I nudged Clare that this had to be her!  It was in fact, Sister Catie, running up to Clare and I, hugging us and pushing us into the car.  She exclaimed that she was so happy we were here and sorry she was late!  Apparently another sister was supposed to pick us up but called last minute and couldn’t make it.  Sister Catie, all the way from Tenaru (about 20-30 minutes away in a car), set out on foot to come get us!  On her way she saw Brother Henry, a member of the community, and flagged him down for a ride.  I couldn’t believe the way things were working out.  If Brother Henry hadn’t come to the rescue, I have no idea what we would have done without any cell phones or directions.

Clare hopped in the back of the pickup truck with Sister Catie and our bags while I sat up front with Brother Henry.  I had some packages to deliver to the sisters at Panatina Ridge, so we were on a mission to deliver.  Brother Henry gave me the grand tour, and I couldn’t believe my eyes as I glanced out the window.  So many people were walking barefoot on the roads to their respective fruit and vegetable stands, while some children ran around without any clothes.  The display of skin and hair colors were all a variety, and I later learned that Honiara is the “melting pot” of the islands.  The country is absolutely beautiful and untouched.

We arrived at Panatina Ride where I met a New Zealand volunteer and Sister Leonie, whom I had a package for.  She was recently diagnosed with breast cancer and treated at St. Vincent’s and Santa Sabina in Sydney, so I was happy to deliver some medications for her.  After a complimentary banana and warm welcome, we headed off to Tenaru to see Sister Catie’s house at St. Joseph’s School.

Brother Henry drove us down dirt road after dirt road, filled with potholes and mud.  There was recently a flood and the roads were not in great condition.  I was simply in awe of the beautiful people in every direction, totally content in their way of life and always seeming to be on a destination.  Even after my travels to the Dominican, I cannot fathom that there are so many undeveloped countries and so many cultures that we are unaware of.  We arrived and drove into St. Joseph’s headquarters and marveled at the blue teacher houses on stilts, the gardens, chapel, student dorms, and finally Sister Catie’s house.  It is set up high resting on many poles, and Clare and I climbed up the stairs to meet Sister Stephanie.  She and Sister Catie live together.  We were welcomed so warmly and given a tour of their house. It is truly beautiful and simple, with decorations all around.  They even have a table set like an altar, where they keep memorabilia and notes of Sisters who have passed.  I am seriously so grateful to be here, to which they responded that they were the lucky ones.

Sister Catie drove to pick up her nephew from the airport again, while Stephanie showed Clare and I around and told us a little more about the school.  Sister Stephanie teaches the students, form 1-6 (ages 14, 15, 16), agriculture.  They go to school from 7:20 AM until 1 PM.  After school is out, depending on the day of the week, they have different activities such as sports, planting or harvesting rice, or studying.  Sister Catie works in the clinic, which is open to all students and some surrounding villages.  Clare and I will be participating in both activities, but we will primarily be focused on our specific healthcare/teaching interests.  Sister Stephanie proceeded to open up and tell us about her vows to become a sister and how just a couple of weeks later her mother died.  She recounted this tale with such grace and genuine honestly, and said that when she talks about it, it means she is feeling better, not sad.  Her mother was in a tragic car accident when a coconut tree fell and hit the truck she was in.  No one died except for her mother, who she was supposed to see the next day.  It was so upsetting yet inspiring to hear her tone and take on the story.  For being so young, Sister Stephanie is wise beyond her years and  I am lucky to learn from her.

Pacifika, Sister Catie's loyal parrot


When Sister Catie arrived home, we shared a delicious meal of chicken, corn, cabbage, and rice.  We all spoke over dinner for a long time, and once again, it felt surreal.  After sorting out all my clean water issues and cleaning up from dinner, Sister Catie said that I was sleeping in her room.  I refused but she insisted that she is so grateful and that I need to have her room.  Sister Stephanie did the same for Clare, and once again we are being treated!  I am blessed to have come this far and to be a witness of people so genuine and kind as these Sisters.  Right now I am dousing myself in bug spray under my mosquito net, and waiting for the school bell to ring at 5 AM to walk to the Morning Prayer service.   It is the least I can do after being granted this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.  Right now I hear the sounds of the choir rehearsing, surrounded by a jungle of coconut and avocado trees, in a house on stilts.


Friday, July 20, 2012

1:47 PM

I am writing right now on my lunch/free time break from the clinic this morning!  At around 5:45 AM, Clare came in my room to let me know Sister Catie had woken her up for mass.  I wasn’t really sleeping too deeply because of the roosters and humid weather, so I was glad to get up and start my day.  Throwing on some clothes and grabbing a flashlight, Sister Catie, Clare, and I headed off to the Marist brother’s church down the road.  After hopping over mud puddles and dodging holes in the road, we finally reached the church only a little late.  We walked in to Mass where there were 3 other brothers praying.  The priest was from Holland and was happy to meet us after the Mass.  Sister Catie introduced us, and by the time we got out, it was light out.

We came back to the house for breakfast and Clare prepared some oatmeal on the stove while I set the table.  Right when we sat down and took a bite, Clare and I smiled and tried to be so polite but soon Sister Catie spit out her food.  She accidentally added salt, too much salt, to the oatmeal and said she might have forgotten and poured it in twice!  After being relieved about not having to crunch the oatmeal anymore, we all shared a laugh.  After some toast, Sister Stephanie left for school while Sister Catie insisted we take our time and go to the clinic “whenever.” I love this place!

St. Joseph's Tenaru Clinic
But I was so eager to see inside the clinic and begin seeing patients with Sister Catie!  Sister Catie had patients waiting, but took us on the grand “steady” tour of the two-room clinic.  I was getting anxious while her patients waited but everyone was so calm and absolutely no one is impatient or objects to waiting.  I could hardly believe the lack of supplies that were in the cabinets.  They were stocked with various items such as gauze, bandaids, tape, and cotton rolls, but only some remained.  Clare spent a good amount of time making cotton balls!  I saw the medicine cabinet with amoxicillin, penicillin, and doxycycline.  The most common cases Sister Catie sees are malaria patients, students with a cut or open wound, villagers down the street with coughs or cuts, and those that need injections for infection.  After taking me through each and every one of her supplies, she handed me the patient book in which I was to take the name, age, sex, status(returning or new), address, form(if applied), a medical history, and treatment or diagnosis.  Um, OKAY!  I had no time to worry or second guess myself so I delved in to the patients who had already waited about 30 minutes!  The first patient I saw brought his own battered medical history book which was barely legible.  It was so sad to see such a lack of care for this man, and he could not report his exact age.  I learned from his book that he was to take penicillin injections (4 mL) for 5 days for a chest infection.  The next woman came in and she had already been to Central Hospital, which is about a 20-30 minute drive to Visale, and had stitches.  Sister Catie said she already took them out the day. I started attending to a student who had cut his big toe during soccer.  Finally, I met a man who was complaining of chest pain and also a swollen cut on the inside of his right foot when he was chopping firewood with an axe.  Due to the moist climate and bacteria in this country, open wounds become infected in the blink of an eye.  Even a cut as small as a simple hangnail on my finger must be doused in iodine and bandaged immediately.  Even though this seems like such a simple and easy task, it is appalling that so many Islanders do not even have access to antiseptic or bandaids.  These supplies would be gifts for them, and are definitely something that not many Americans step back and appreciate.  When wounds become infected, the area on the appendage can swell so large that amputation is necessary for survival.  I became so thankful for all that I have been blessed with.   In order to address his cough, which he said prolonged for months and came with a wheeze, Sister Catie suggested a round of amoxicillin.  I took out his correct dosage and placed them in a bag for him.  He is to come back when the dosage is done for a check.

After this exhilarating experience, I cannot wait to begin my career as a medical professional.  Clare and I headed off to the school to see Sister Stephanie and met some of the teachers, children, and the principal.  After that, it was around noon, and Sister Catie took us back to the house to have lunch.  We had crackers and an egg/veggie combo, and waited for Sister Stephanie to come home after school was over.  As soon as she was back, she decided to take Clare and I to the Honiara Central Market for some shopping.  Clare and I were eager to repay the sisters and could not wait to buy them fresh fruit and vegetables.  We walked about a half a mile down to the main road with Sister Stephanie and waited for a bus.  I was surprised to see a over-sized white van pulling up right when we got there, which apparently was our ride!  We handed the man at the door 5 Solomon Island Dollars and awaited our journey.  Listening to some reggae, I enjoyed the mountainous view out my window and the beautiful villages on either side of the road.  I was enjoying the ride until about 15 minutes later when I realized that bus’s capacity are basically as many people as you can fit in 8 seats.  I started sweating profusely and began to laugh as everyone stared at me like, “What is she doing here?”  Clare and I stuck out like sore thumbs.  Finally, after what seemed like a long time, we arrived at the Central Market.  But Stephanie’s phone rang and it was Sister Veronica, who we are going to stay with on Sunday, and she wanted me to go about 15 minutes back down the road to the District Medical Office for business I needed to attend to about working in the Visale Clinic.  There was no stress, no impatience, we just got back on the bus and met Sister Veronica.  When we arrived, I met her by the gates and received a warm welcome.  She is absolutely adorable and so friendly.  She guided me into the official office which I think made her very nervous.  I think I should have been more worried than I was, but when I went in, the man made me take a seat and asked me what kind of work I would be doing in the clinic.  He specifically asked if I would be conducting research on the Islands.  I explained that I was only here to “look-and-see” and help as needed.  I did not have the proper permit to research, nor is that part of my program.  He then believed Sister Veronica and granted me permission.  Apparently some groups come from other countries and collect data, which is not supposed to be released.  I felt horrible that they thought I would be doing this.

After this tense meeting, the staff lightened up and some people even came up to me and asked if I could help in their village clinics because they needed help.  This was very heart breaking.  I want to go everywhere, but I have so little time.  Sister Veronica was laughing and apologized for the meeting.  They wanted to verify she was telling the truth by having me come along to “testify.”  After that little experience, we hopped on another bus in heavy traffic and waited to arrive at the market once again.  We finally arrived, and I could not believe the masses of people that were under this enclosed area.  There was mat after mat laid out with all different kinds of fruit and vegetables.  Many of the sellers had the same goods but were competing for prices.  Everything is so inexpensive compared the American dollar.  After getting about 1,000 more stares and giggles from everyone in the market, I really started to enjoy myself.  I was certainly a spectacle as we picked out every fresh fruit that Sister Stephanie wanted.  Our purchases ended up being: lettuce, shallots, pineapple, sweet potato, cucumber, squash, and 2 coconuts for Clare and I to drink.  As we hauled ourselves through the stifling heat, I could tell that Sister Stephanie was thrilled with our produce selection.  We looked through the displays of hand-crafted jewelry and shell money, and made some more purchases.  Finally, we picked out 4 beautiful apples for Sister Catie, her absolute favorite.

Sister Veronica and Sister Leonie picked us up, essentially rescuing us from the people who sat one foot in front of me on the sidewalk staring at me.  One group of passersby even took a picture of me (seriously?!?)  Clare and I were hysterically laughing.  This is certainly an unforgettable experience.  Sister Stephanie could tell the natives were getting restless, perhaps because Friday night is a big drinking night and countless numbers of people were chewing and spitting beetlenut, which is an intoxicating seed that stains the teeth brown, causes mouth cancer, and has a narcotic effect.  We drove back to Tenaru after stopping at a breadshop, and another (Solomon time), and we all went inside to start dinner.  I was so surprised when Sister Leonie took our coconuts and literally chopped them in her hand with a huge knife.  She then took out all the meat and peeled them for us to eat.  I didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought I would, but it was an interesting taste.  The water was also refreshing but very sweet and heavy.  We enjoyed ourselves as Sister Catie started chopping up our vegetables to cook.  Clare and I made her close her eyes and handed her the apples we bought and she was so happy! 

Perhaps one of the best moments of today was when I was in the clinic with Sister Catie sitting waiting for the next patient.  For some reason, I asked her if she knew a doctor called Roger Webber, because I had recently read a book by him titled “Solomoni” before I came in order to prepare.  Dr. Webber traveled to every island extensively throughout ten years, becoming district medical officer and making huge advancements for malaria treatment.  He was stationed on the islands with his wife and two children, originally from England, and they all fell in love with the island.  I doubted that any of their time coincided, but the dates seemed to line up, so I asked Sister Catie anyway.  She nonchalantly answered, “Oh, yes, Dr. Roger Webber and his two children Sophy and Lucy.”  WHAT!  Sister Catie named the characters I had just read about word for word.  She was more surprised that I knew him rather than her!  As I recounted the information I knew about Dr. Webber, Sister Catie reiterated and confirmed everything.  After his wife died in a plane crash in New Delhi and the two children were the only survivors, Sister Catie actually watched the children in Gizo!  She knew the snacks they preferred and how they loved to swim.  I could not believe this coincidence, and I later gave the book for Sister Catie to keep and all the sisters were thrilled.  In fact, Dr. Webber began seeing a Solomon Islander named Heti Bea after his wife died.  Sister Catie said that she knew Heti Bea and that her granddaughter goes to St. Joseph’s!  Sister Leonie exclaimed that she saw Heti Bea herself today at the airport.  Seriously?  I could not believe it.  Everything happens for a reason, and today certainly confirmed this.

After dinner and cleanup, I experienced my first bucket shower, and never have enjoyed one more.  I hand washed my clothes shortly after.  While I was cleaning, Clare told me that Sister Stephanie asked how to spell our names.  She said that when women come to the clinic in labor, they often ask what they should name their children.  She said that now she has two names to give them.  What an incredible ending to a day I will always remember.


(from left) Clare, Sister Vero, Sister Catie, Me, Sister Leonie, and Sister Stephanie



Saturday, July 21, 2012

5:15 PM
I am sitting at the kitchen table with Sister Catie and Clare after almost 12 hours of a busy day!  We woke up around 5:45 AM and walked to mass again at the Fathers’ chapel.  It was so dark and took us quite a while to navigate after falling in the puddles of mud on the way.  When we got there, mass was beautifully said and we headed back to the house for some breakfast.  After some toast, Sister Stephanie headed to the deputy principal’s house because one of her family members was trying to sell them a pig, while I headed off to the clinic.  The clinic was slower than yesterday because it was a weekend, and it was unfortunate to see that the people who needed to come back for return doses never returned.  I ended up just cleaning and talking with some of the students, and dressing the wound from the woman who was hit by a coconut. 

Because it was a Saturday, the children do cleaning work all day.  This isn’t typical cleaning though, almost all 300 of the students had machetes in hand, whacking the grass that grows overnight in this damp weather.  They were so quiet and no one even complained.  They looked like they were enjoying themselves despite the immense humidity.  Clare and I wanted to help, but Sister Stephanie wanted us to accompany her to the market in order to tell her family that the deputy wanted to buy the pig.  We got a ride from Brother Vincent and headed off into the busy Central Market once again.  I felt like a local this time, and we bought bananas, peanuts, and catnut.  On Saturdays, the market also has a special flower section which were incredible.  I could stare at the rainbow of colors for much longer than I did.  We picked up a bouquet for Sister Catie, and also bought some laplaps, which are sarong type wraps that are handcrafted. 

After the market, we all had a lunch of rice, bananas, and fruit.  Sister Catie and Stephanie were pleased, and Brother Vincent stayed for the meal.  Everyone was exhausted because of the heat, but the students were still diligently working.  Sister Catie insisted that we take a “rest” and before we could object, I fell asleep sitting up in a chair.  Clare and I decided to take a quick nap but could not even stand the heat in our rooms.  We walked down the road and admired beautiful scenery. The bugs were brutal, but I’ve never seen such untouched beauty as the villages to my left and right.  When we returned, Clare and I wanted to help around the house more, so we raked the yard that the boys had slashed before.  I never realized how much we take lawnmowers for granted, how they actually take up the dead grass… So we raked and raked until it started to downpour, which felt amazing.

Now it is much cooler after the rain.  Clare and I showed Sister Catie photos of our family and I received some interesting comments that may or may not be true (she’s a nun she has to be nice!)  I showed her a picture of Collin and she said, “Oooh, so handsome!”  I then showed her a picture of Pam and Bill to which she replied that my mother looks young and my father looks strong.  Accurate?  Maybe…but we were all laughing.  Sister Stephanie prepared a feast of pumpkin, sweet potato, cabbage, greenbeans, and chicken.  She also cut up the watermelon from the market and the pineapple! After they said this was “The Last Supper” and were sad to see us go tomorrow, they gave Clare and I laplaps that they picked out for us.  It was so sweet and they said they wanted us to wear them on the boat to Auki.  Clare’s is blue, yellow, and purple tie-dye while mine is purple and green with dolphins.  They are seriously the sweetest people I have met, and I am sorry to leave tomorrow.  I am excited for Visale and know that Sister Stephanie and Sister Catie are happy for us in our journey.